1) Print all colors through 40T or less mesh
for standard glitter (note some glitters are larger and will require larger mesh opening).
Screen should be set off-contact to allow ink to separate from
screen with each stroke. Higher tension screens give better results. Wood screens are
commonly used.
2) Luster and Glitter Ink should be printed LAST,
unless followed by flash curing; multi colored designs can be printed this way.
3) Use medium/hard squeegee. At least three (3)
strokes for full opacity. Use low angle squeegee strokes. Cure @ 325 to 350 degrees F,
prox 90 sec. Curing may vary with ink deposit, fabric and type of drying unit.
ALWAYS TEST
BEFORE USING.
4) Can be extended with QCM LFP-1002 Clear for
non-opaque effects, and cost reduction.
5) Interesting special effects can be achieved by
various contrasting, flash-curing, under-coat colors, under-coat must be properly cured
as it may effect the washability of glitter ink) i.e. gold over black (LFP-901); silver
over medium blue (LFP-502), etc. Contrasting outlines can produce nice effects when art
work for glitter is cropped back.
6) Care should be taken during wash-up to minimize
contamination of glitter to other screens, shirts, employees, etc. Clean-up (screens) use
Xylene or Odorless Mineral Spirits.
7) Screen Preparation: Prepare screen with Autotype
Autoprep which roughens and degreases new mesh or coat screen, burn, wash out and re-coat
to roughen mesh. Use direct emulsions: Autotype Autosol 5000 (TM), Ulano Fotocoat 569
(TM), Dorn XL (TM).
RECOMMENDATIONS for the use of this product are
based on tests believed to be reliable. However, since the use of this product is beyond
our control, no guarantee or warranty of any kind express or implied is made with respect
to information presented and QCM Co. assumes no responsibility for the results of the use
of this product and process described.***
